Used car buying guide: Alfa Romeo Spider

It’s also free of the tensioner issues that bothered the Twin Spark and forced Alfa to slash that engine’s belt change interval from 72,000 to 36,000 miles. That said, the TS is a strong, responsive and smooth engine. Do your checks and you should have nothing to fear.

The Spider was facelifted in 1998 (new centre console, small tweaks to the TS engine), but these cars are now very rare, most scrapped due to low values and high maintenance costs. Another facelift in 2003 was bolder (a new nose and that 3.2 V6). Production ended the following year.

Trim levels were standard, Turismo, Lusso and Lusso Final Edition. Most surviving cars appear to have the all-important leather trim. A silver Spider with contrasting red leather looks sensational. You may see some right-hand-drive Japanese imports on your travels. They’re pricey but generally in better condition than UK cars. Find a good Spider Twin Spark, beat the seller down by muttering something about the tensioner and bag a future classic.

How to get one in your garage: 

An expert’s view: JAMIE PORTER, ALFA WORKSHOP - “The Spider is a great sports car: pointy and agile in Twin Spark form, beautiful-sounding and effortless in V6. The V6 is heavier and not as responsive as the TS, but is my favourite. A shame they’re so rare. A late-plate 3.2 is a real collector’s item. Saying that, I see all 916-series values going through the roof. Early cars are getting rusty around the rear arches and jacking points, and some parts are hard to source. Spare hood release motors, for example, are non-existent, so make sure the hood works.”

Buyer beware...

ENGINE - Check the oil level because it likes a drink. Oil pumps are prone to failure. Timingbeltshouldbechangedevery 36,000 miles on the 2.0 TS, every 60,000 on the V6. A rattle could be the cam variator. Low power may be the mass airflow sensor. Check condition of V6’s oil cooler pipes. Hunting at tickover is a failed idle control motor.

TRANSMISSION - Clutch and gearbox are reliable but a high biting point means the clutch is givingup. Check smooth changes; a notchy fifth could be a loose nut.

SUSPENSION - Check for excessive wear on the inner edges of the front tyres, possibly caused by worn front lower wishbones. Rear suspension can be troublesome, one problem being on the 2.0 TS where steel inserts in the bushes rub against the aluminium subframe. In rare cases, the subframe may need replacing.

HOOD - Check it works, and is free of tears and leaks. The power hood is computer- controlled and any issues should be indicated by a light next to the control switch. Check hydraulic rams for leaks.

BODY - Rust shouldn’t be an issue on later cars but any you find could be a poor repair.

INTERIOR - On start-up, check ABS, airbag and engine management lights go out. An inactive air-con system may need a new radiator (expensive). Annoying squeaks may be the locating pins for the hood. A dab of grease should cure it.