Used car buying guide: Honda Civic Type R

That said, the engine is a durable lump if given the proper care and attention, and while it won’t muster much more than 30mpg in daily use, you needn’t baulk at the prospect of maintaining an EP3 as your daily driver. And with a 0-62mph time of around 6.6sec, you would no doubt relish your morning commute.

While it’s the factory-spec cars that fetch top dollar, some modifications help to extract the best from the EP3’s exploitable chassis and drivetrain. Chassis components from the slightly more powerful Japanese-market (JDM) model, for example, mitigate its inherent unpredictability on the limit, and you will want to invest in some trick Ferodo DS2500 brake pads if you’re considering the odd track day.

Irrespective of your plans, you want to start with a solid base, so learn what problem areas to look for and take the leap while the more ‘honest’ examples are still affordable.

How to get one in your garage

An owner’s view

Owen Lloyd: “What’s not to like? It’s still iconic. Look at prices of used K20s: they’re going through the roof, because this engine brought a significant jump in performance over anything that went before. The EP3 is one of those cars you never mind putting petrol in. It’s incredible to drive – an absolute riot. But it is twitchy; you can see why a lot got crashed. It’s a bit like the Peugeot 205 GTi: if you back off mid-corner, it will do strange (or exciting) things.”

Buyer beware…

â–  Engine: Changing the cam chain at 100,000 miles is essential and much cheaper than the new engine you will need if it snaps. If a car is due a replacement, use this to haggle. Let the engine warm up for more than 10 minutes before giving it the beans, and if you can’t feel that VTEC ‘kick’ just before 6000rpm in third or fourth, it’s likely that the oil is low, suggesting poor maintenance.

â–  Gearbox: The synchros take a pounding from consistent hard use; carbon-lined heavy-duty items cost about £300. Facelifted cars had a lighter flywheel for better drivability, so it’s worth throwing one in when changing the clutch. You could also fit a limited-slip differential – one of the best possible modifications, because it improves steering feel and reduces understeer.

â–  Interior: Options were few, but it’s worth finding a car with air-con (and checking the condenser is still fighting fit). Also look for 30th Anniversary Edition cars, which have comfier Recaro seats, red upholstery and tinted windows, or the post-facelift Premier Edition, which added a leather Momo wheel. The front seats are prone to wear, but you need less than £250 for a replacement pair.

â–  Suspension, steering: The original Showa shock absorbers are prone to wear, but most will have been replaced by now. Alignment bolts can seize, causing issues down the line, so look underneath the car. Swapping in a JDM-spec anti-roll bar improves turn-in response for around £130.

â–  Bodywork: If the sills or rear arches are showing rust, there are likely to be horrors lurking beneath, but a welder should be able to put things right. Facelifted cars are especially susceptible, because the arches were lined with water-trapping sound-deadening material. Expect milky headlights, the thinly painted wheels to need touching up and, on red cars, the paint to need a good polish.

Also worth knowing

Catalytic converter theft is rife, and supply of replacements is severely limited; they thus cost around £1000, so the car is usually relegated to track duties. A cat is needed for an MOT, so make sure it’s still there (you will hear if it isn’t) and do all you can to keep it so.

How much to spend

£1500-£2999: Crashed and condemned parts cars and part-converted track toys.

£3000-£4999: A mixture of pre- and post-facelift cars, nearly all with 100,000 miles or more.

£5000-£6999: Lower-mileage, later examples with MOTs and promising history.

£7000 and above: Special editions, JDM imports and professionally finished track cars.

One we found