Used car buying guide: Subaru Impreza WRX Mk3

Don’t be sucked in by its flared arches, by its massive alloys or even (literally) by its whopping big turbo. The STi is a full-bore, four-wheel-drive performance car and should be purchased and treated as such. Find a good specialist, research parts prices and, above all, pay the extra for good-quality fuel. It will reward you for it.

How to get one in your garage

An owner's view

Andrew Wong: “My car was owned by Subaru UK and reviewed by the press; I bought it from a Subaru dealer afterwards. The hatchback isn’t a bad car. The Driver’s Control Centre Differential (DCCD) system is crazy – it allows no slip, even in heavy rain – and is a lot better than in previous models. The only downside is the 2.5-litre engine: having heard all those ‘chocolate piston’ stories, you always think it might blow up if you drive aggressively. I’m not sure exactly what my engine management light was related to, but the car is still active at the moment, so it probably wasn’t a major issue. I got £9000 for it in 2015, and it’s still worth £9000 today.”

Buyer beware...

â–  Engine: Query any massive air filters, strut braces and aftermarket hose set-ups. Modifications aren’t always bad news if they’ve been carried out properly, but they can point to how the car has been driven. Watch for signs of ringland failure, which is when the piston cracks between the rings, letting gas underneath and causing pressure build-up in the sump. Low-octane fuel, hard driving and improper tuning are the primary causes. Turbo failure is a worry: look for smoke and boost loss.

â–  Bodywork: Dubious bodykits and stickers can always be removed, but watch for rust bubbles underneath the vinyl on the B-pillar, because this can spread and write off the entire door. To be really thorough, remove the wheel-arch liners and underbody guards to make sure the rear of the chassis isn’t hiding any horrors. As with all performance cars, check the front chassis legs, sills and boot floor for evidence of past impacts.

â–  Suspension: Worn droplinks are the primary cause of any untoward knocking noises, but they’re a relatively easy fix, so don’t let that put you off. Both anti-roll bars are secured with rubber bushes that perish over time, and if there’s any sign of a leak from the shock absorbers, they’ll need replacing. Budget around £400 for a decent aftermarket set.

â–  Gearbox: Years of repeated hard launches will hurt the gearbox. Check each gear engages smoothly, with no crunching noises, and that the clutch has a well-defined biting point and returns as expected. If buying a used gearbox, be absolutely certain that it bears the same part number as your original one.

Also worth knowing

In Japan, the WRX STi took its 304bhp from a twin-scroll turbocharged 2.0-litre engine, so grey imports are better to drive and less likely to rust or fall victim to piston failure. Stick with the 2.5 if you covet that trademark boxer burble, though, as the JDM car’s engine note is slightly less imposing.