Used car buying guide: Alfa Romeo 156

Optional Selespeed automatic versions of the 2.0 TS had change buttons on the steering wheel, which was cool. The 2.5 V6 was available with a four-speed auto called Q-System, which featured a traditional auto function plus an H-pattern manual change. Three so-called Sport packs brought extra kit, but Sport 1, with its lower-profile tyres and sports suspension, was the most cost-effective.

The arrival of the 1.6 TS in 2000 triggered a range-wide price cut. A facelift two years later introduced a mix of desirable standard and optional features including a Bose sound system and xenon headlights, while the Selespeed buttons were replaced by paddles. More importantly, though, the impressive 2.0 TS was replaced by the new (and less impressive) 2.0 JTS engine with direct injection, the 2.4 JTD got a touch more power and the mighty 3.2 V6 GTA landed. With 247bhp on tap, this version should have shaken the trees but it was a flawed diamond and today is one of the few used cars that’s worth a premium when expertly modified and sharpened up.

With the final facelift of 2003, the 156’s nose was restyled in line with the next generation of Alfas and the excellent 1.9 TD engine arrived. And then, in 2005, it was game over. Today, the 1.9 TD, 2.0 TS and 3.2 GTA are the versions to buy, but be sure you check those floorpans.

How to get one in your garage

An expert's view

Jamie Porter, Alfa Workshop: “The 156 was a superb car and people forget it was pretty advanced. The 2.0 JTS engine had direct injection while the 2.4 JTD was the first common-rail passenger car diesel engine. My favourites are the 2.0-litre Twin Spark, 1.9 TD and 3.2 GTA. The rest you can forget. The 2.0 JTS was unreliable and suffered emissions problems, the 2.4 JTD was too heavy and not very economical, and the 1.6 and 1.8 TSs didn’t really catch on. The 2.5 V6 wasn’t very fast but it was thirsty, and the car itself was too soft. Today, rust is the biggest issue. The platform fares worst so always get a prospective buy on a ramp and poke about under it.”

Buyer beware...

â–  Engines: On petrols, the cambelt and water pump should be changed at 36,000 miles. On the GTA, a rubbing sound may be the cambelt fouling the cam covers. A lack of power or poor idling is likely to be the air flow meter, which lasts around 70,000 miles. On diesels, cambelts should be changed at 60k miles. A seized water pump bearing will take out the cambelt, wrecking the engine. A sticking EGR valve can be an issue on 1.9 TDs. Check for oil smoke. Check the JTD’s sump isn’t cracked.

â–  Transmission: Feel for worn synchros and listen for worn bearings in the gearbox end case. A high biting point on the pedal plus a heavy action mean a worn clutch. On diesels, a clunk as you let out the clutch is likely to be the dual-mass flywheel.

â–  Suspension: A creak coming from behind the dashboard may be worn upper wishbone ends. Check the rear suspension rear arm bushes and rear radius arm bushes for wear. Uneven tyre wear (toeing out is common) is likely to be a geometry issue or wear in the upper top wishbones.