Used car buying guide: Porsche 911

The same year marked the arrival of the Targa, with its sliding panoramic glass sunroof. This is another rare 996, although we did see a rather nice 2004 example with 60,000 miles and full Porsche history for £19,995. Also in 2002, the Carrera 4S coupé and cabriolet emerged. Wrapped in the Turbo’s wider body and fitted with its sportier suspension and more powerful brakes, these cars are the choice of most experts we spoke to. Prices begin at £17,000. And then, with the arrival of the all-new 997 in 2004, it was all over. 

All over for the 996, but not for the rumour mill, fuelled by stories about the model’s poor reliability, in particular failure of the rear main seal (RMS) and cracked cylinder heads at all ages, failure of the intermediate shaft (IMS) bearing on some post-2001-model-year cars, and split cylinder liners on some 2004-model-year cars. These are very rare problems and there are tell-tale signs, so don’t let scaremongers put you off. You’ll only kick yourself.

How to get one in your garage

An expert’s view 

Matt Gooda, Mortimers: “The 996 is the 911 to buy but do so now because prices are rising. I’m paying more for good ones than I was 12 months ago. It’s inevitable now that the earlier, air-cooled cars are out of reach. The 996 won’t always be as cheap as this. The exception is the Turbo, whose prices have been climbing steadily, although I reckon they’ve peaked. You’ll be lucky to find a 996 with a full main dealer service history but a mix of main dealers and specialists using the correct oils and filters is fine.” 

Buyer beware… 

â–  Engine: Listen for a rattle from cold, suggesting the IMS bearing is failing. An oil leak is another clue. Check whether it has been replaced, and if it hasn’t, consider a retrofit replacement when the clutch is changed. Cylinder heads and liners can crack and split on early 3.4s. Look for coolant in the oil and have the bores checked. An oil weep could be the rear main seal. Check the front-mounted radiator and air-con condensers for corrosion or damage. Inspect the coil pack insulation for cracks. 

â–  Transmission: Heavy pedal action indicates imminent clutch failure. On Tiptronic versions, check the coolant pipes for rust. 

â–  Suspension and brakes: Listen for creaking and rattling over speed bumps from the car’s four corners, suggesting control arms need replacing. Check workshop invoices for evidence of recent brake work and that parts used were OE. Uneven tyre wear may point to alignment issues. 

â–  Body: With the exception of the door latches, any rust you see is probably related to an accident repair, so check panel gaps, too. Inspect the underside for signs of structural damage. Check the headlights for rust caused by condensation. Make sure the automatic boot spoiler rises and falls.

â–  Interior: Squeaks, rattles and worn and scuffed trim are to be expected. Check for warning lights and make sure the air-con system does its job.